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$\begingroup$Simon's condition is presumably the best possible answer. Incidentally, the "right" product structure on symmetric matrices is the Jordan product $A \circ B = (AB + BA)/2$, which reduces to the ordinary product if and only if $A$ and $B$ commute.$\endgroup$
$\begingroup$I assume Simon thought that the proof of his answer is too trivial to warrant mention, but for what it's worth, if $A$, $B$, and $AB$ are symmetric, then $AB=(AB)^t=B^tA^t=BA$.$\endgroup$
$\begingroup$Right. But not all complex matrices are product of two Hermitian matrices. A necessary and sufficient condition is to be similar to a real matrix.$\endgroup$