Remarks (2) and (3) are added in this edit.
What Cohen's quoted proof outline is leaving implicit is the following statement in which $\mathrm{Con}(T)$ means "$T$ is consistent".
$(*)$ Assuming $\mathrm{Con(ZF + SM)}$, $\mathrm{V} \neq \mathrm {L}$ is not provable from $\mathrm{ZF + SM}$, where $\mathrm{SM}$ stands for the statement "there is standard (i.e., well-founded) model of ZF".
$(*)$ is an immediate consequence of the the well-known fact that $\mathrm{Con(ZF + SM)}$ implies $\mathrm{Con(ZF + SM + V = L)}$. This well-known fact, in turn, follows from absoluteness considerations: if $\mathcal{M}\models \mathrm{ZF + SM}$, then $\mathrm{L}^{\mathcal{M}} \models \mathrm{ZF + SM+V=L}$, where $\mathrm{L}^{\mathcal{M}}$ is the constructible universe as computed in $\mathcal{M}$.
By the way: The quoted statement of Cohen in his article is phrased as the theorem below on pages 108-109 of his book "Set Theory and the Continuum Hypothesis". In Cohen's terminology SM stands for the statement "there is standard (i.e., well-founded) model of $\mathrm{ZF}$".
Theorem. From $\mathrm{ZF + SM}$ or indeed from any axiom system containing $\mathrm{ZF}$ which is consistent with $\mathrm{V = L}$, one cannot prove the existence of an uncountable standard model in which $\mathrm{AC}$ is true and $\mathrm{CH}$ is false, nor even one in which AC holds and which contains nonconstructible real numbers.
Three remarks are in order:
Remark (1) In unpublished work, Cohen and Solovay noted that one can use forcing over a countable standard model of ZF to build uncountable standard models of $\mathrm{ZF}$ (in which AC fails by Cohen's aforementioned result). Later, Harvey Friedman extended their result by showing that every countable standard model of $\mathrm{ZF}$ of (ordinal) height $\alpha$ can be generically extended to a model with the same height but whose cardinality is $\beth_{\alpha}$ (Friedman, Harvey, Large models of countable height, Trans. Am. Math. Soc. 201, 227-239 (1975). ZBL0296.02036).
Remark (2) It is easy to see (using the reflection theorem and relativizing to the constructible universe) that, assuming the consistency of $\mathrm{ZF + SM}$, the theory $\mathrm{ZF + SM}$ + "there is no uncountable standard model of $\mathrm{ZFC}$" is also consistent.
Remark (3) Within $\mathrm{ZF}$ + "there is an uncountable standard model $\mathcal{M} \models \mathrm{ZFC+V=L}$ such that $\omega_3^{\mathcal{M}}$ is countable", one can use forcing to build a generic extension $\mathcal{N}$ of $\mathcal{M}$ that violates $\mathrm{CH}$; thus $\mathcal{N}$ is an uncountable standard model of $\mathrm{ZFC + \lnot CH}$. More specifically, the assumption of countability of $\omega_3^{\mathcal{M}}$, and the fact that GCH holds in $\mathcal{M}$, assures us that there exists a $\mathbb{P}$-generic filter over $\mathcal{M}$, where $\mathbb{P}$ is the usual notion of forcing in $\mathcal{M}$ for adding $\omega_2$ Cohen reals. Thus, in the presence of the principle "$0^{\sharp}$ exists" (which is implied by sufficiently large cardinals, and implies that every definable object in the constructible universe is countable) there are lots of uncountable standard models of $\mathrm{ZFC + \lnot CH}$ .