If I recall correctly, Jech is using as his metatheory the class theory $\mathsf{NBG}$. In this context, "true" is a proxy for "true in the (class-sized) structure $V$."
Specifically, the (more) formal version of the natural-language Theorem $12.7$ is the following:
$Th(V)$ is not definable in $V$.
The definition of $Th(V)$ is taking place on the class level: it's a set of natural numbers defined by quantifying over classes. The same is true for the property "definable in $V$." So even though it looks like Jech is using a weirdly un-referring notion of "truth," it is in fact just the usual notion of truth with respect to a specific structure - that structure being $V$, and that whole facet of the argument being (annoyingly, perhaps) kept implicit. Note that this makes the whole "correctness-about-$\omega$" issue moot: Theorem $12.7$ is about a structure which by definition has the right $\omega$.
An in-my-opinion more satisfying version of the result, which makes correctness-about-$\omega$ nontrivial, is the following:
$T$ proves that for all $\mathcal{M}\models\mathsf{ZFC}$, $Th(\mathcal{M})$ is not the standard part of a definable subset of $\mathcal{M}$.
Here $T$ is a very weak theory indeed: $\mathsf{ACA_0^+}$ suffices (really the only need for strength being the requirement that the theory of a structure is actually a thing that makes sense in the first place - see e.g. here). Note that this version of the result does not apply only to models which are correct about $\omega$.