See the question Geometric interpretation of trace. There are several ways to define the trace:
The sum of elements on the main diagonal.
The sum of eigenvalues.
The derivative of the determinant at the identity.
The unique Lie algebra homomorphism onto $\mathbb{R}$, up to scale. (See also here.)
"What you get when a linear map eats itself", as one answer put it. More precisely:
The idea of the trace operation is easily seen in string diagram notation: essentially one takes the endomorphism $a \stackrel{f}{\to} a$, "bends it around" using the duality and the symmetry and connects its output to its input.
This comment tells a story about it:
This reminds me of a story recounted by a friend of mine in graduate school. He spent a lot of time in the department, and one evening was approached by an undergraduate taking a fancy class that had introduced the trace of a linear transformation in the slick coordinate-free manner. This undergraduate had been tasked with computing the trace of a certain 2×2 matrix and had no idea how to proceed.
Nontrivial divides between coordinate-free/abstract and coordinate-based/concrete approaches—turning theorems into definitions and viceversa—also arise elsewhere, such as when defining tensors and tensor products.